Vrtba Garden

Vrtba garden

This beautiful Prague baroque garden was built by Jan Josef , Count of Vrtba  in 1723. It is located at the foot of Petrin Hill.

Count Vrtba was the highest Burgrave of the Kingdom of Bohemia. He was appointed in 1712 and immediately after that he started with rebuilding of his palace and changing of the vineyard into one of the most beautiful terrace garden in Prague.

The construction of the garden finished in 1720. In following years,  it was decorated with sculptures, mural paintings and stuccoes. The garden was most probably completed before the coronation of Emperor Charles  VI on September 5^th1723.

There are several reasons why this garden is unique. One of them is the close collaboration of excellent Czech artists.  The garden was built using the project of F.M. Kanka. M. Braun is the author of the statues and the sala terrena and the dining room were painted by V.V. Reiner.

Gate

Since it is located in the middle of the courtyard it has more of a symbolic character than  real practical function. At the top is Atlas holding the Universe. On the left side is Abundance with cornucopia, on the right is Wealth with a crown of a city’s fortification wall and holding a money pouch.

The decoration of the gate might express the important political role of the Emperor and his Highest Burgrave.

Sala Terrena

The ground plan of this hall is an ellipses. One wall is almost completely taken by three arches open to the lowest level of the garden.  The hall thus belongs to the garden as well as to the Palace.

The decoration depicts the ruins of ancient Rome. There are also musicians – a man playing a cello and a woman with a tambourine.

On the main wall is a mirror image of the arched gateway leading of the garden. It is badly damages but one can see a terraced garden with a statue of a naked goddess on the left and a pool with a fountain on the right. Behind are steps to a temple on the horizon.

In the foreground there are three men and a woman. The men are philosophers (beards and gestures). It means that the woman must be the learned Aspasia (wife of Pericles from Athens). The man speaking to Aspasia is Socrates.

This picture of a philosophical debate indicates that the garden is not only a place for the refreshment of the body but also of the soul.

Apollo

On the left is Apollo with a lyre, on the right Pan (Marsyas) with a syrinx. They got in a musical contest. Marsyas challenged the god and paid his life.

The two niches contain the statues of Ceres and Bacchus by M.B. Braun.This pair of the Godess of Harvest and the God of Wine were often featured in Baroque gardens. Ceres is holding a cup (which is unusual) . She received it from Bacchus, who is very often represented with this atribute. In this way the statues are directly connected.

These two are often depicted also with Venus ( and Amor.) This trio of gods illustrate the phrase , "Venus freezes without Bacchus and Ceres." It means love passion cools off without drink and food. It was a popular theme at the Royal court of Rudolph II (Prague 1583 - 1611) - and the model for this depiction in the Vrtba garden might be seen in the famous painting by Hans von Aachen " Bacchus, Ceres and Amor" in Vienna.

Marsyas

Venus is present painted in the ceiling (V.V. Reiner) We see her seated under a tree with her lover Adonis. But their love will not last long. To the right are his hunting dogs ready to leave for a hunt. Adonis is later killed by a wild boar.
Venus is holding an apple, the apple she received from Paris (To the most beautiful one of all - fight among Venus, Juno and Minerva), symbol of her triumph. But in this context it also underlines her defeat.

Dining Room

The ceiling is decorated with a fresco by Reiner depicting the Muses at Mount Helicon being visited by Minerva. From left we see Geometry (pair of compasses), Sculpture (hammer and marble bust), Painting (palette) Music (playing the lute) and Literature (book) looking to the right at Apollo in his chariot. Above is Minerva with laurel wreath in one hand, her other hand is guiding the Painting's brush.

Baroque methods of composition are specific. The main principle was the contrast. Nature versus Culture, Venus versus Minerva, The Salla terrena in contrast to the Aviary (the opposite end of the terrace). The particular part of the garden always contrasts with the one behind us and before us.

The Lower Terrace

When standing facing the higher levels of the garden we realise that the situation from the Atlas gate repeats. Our expectations are again disappointed. We are left with only a limited view. We can see more but we do not know how far the garden stretches. It can be ten or hundred meters.

The garden is organised strictly symmetrically. The ground plans of the different levels are interconnected but at the same time locked together like puzzle pieces.

The wall that we see in front of us is convex, a response to the concave plan of the Salla Terrena and Aviary.

Information at the aviary

The Middle Terrace

We expected spacious green lawns but we get another wall which totally conceals the rest of the garden.

This terrace is narrower than the previous. It has the shape of  an infinity sign. the wall was originally painted with decoration.

We can see the steps, so we know how to continue.

The Upper Terrace

When we reach the Upper Terrace the garden is different again.

The main decoration is the gallery of Olympian Gods (nowadays replicas, originals made by M.B. Braun).

On the right is Jupiter with eagle pointing his beak to his hand.

Minerva

Jupiter is addressing with this gesture Mercury, standing next to him. He wants him to settle the dispute of three goddesses standing to the left - Minerva, Juno and Venus over the golden apple.

(Juno promised Paris he would become Lord of all Landsand the richest of all. Minerva promised him that if he chose her he would be the bravest. But Venus promised him love of Helena, the most beautiful woman among women. Paris liked the last offer and proclaimed Venus the most beautiful of all).

Next to Jupiter is his favourite daughter Minerva - helmet on her head and shield in her hand. on the shield is the head of Gorgo. She is our guide because she is turning her head at us.

Next is Juno with peacock looking up, perhaps at heavens where she rules with Jupiter.

Adonis

Next is Venus and Adonis , both depicted as hunters. Venus is trying in vain to attract the attention of Adonis. He is turning his head away. He makes a striking contrast to Mercury who is keenly turning towards Jupiter on the opposite side.

It seems like the owner (builder) of the garden has introduced himself as a philosopher , who knows that nothing is as it seems. We know that the melancholy of carnal love is the main theme of the garden, but we do not know why.

The answer is hidden in the last two statues on the left side.

There is Volcanos who differs from other gods by his indifference to appearance. He is standing next to his wife Venus, but  is ignoring her. He is looking towards heaven where he finds inspiration for his black craft.

With his right hand he is pointing at the last statue - two fighting boys. When you look closely you can see that the fight has already been decided. The boys resemble Eros and his counterpart Anteros (Love and Love returned). Their depiction was used to illustrate the eternal battle between heavenly and terrestrial love.

We live in the material world but it must not become the goal of Art.

Art makes sense only as the means of attaining the highest virtue.

The Gloriette

Here used to be a painting of a seascape. Now there we can see here the River God and next to him Neptune. The proximity of the ocean is suggested by shells and stucco mermaids.

Why is there an ocean.

To understand that we must look at the Gloriette together with the Atlas gate of the garden. The beginning and the end.

On the gate is Atlas - symbol of heaven plus Abundance and Wealth- they together make up the land.

The Gloriette represents oceans and rivers, the entire waters of the Earth. The picture of the Universe is then complete.

The fact that the Vrtba garden does not only celebrate the Czech kingdom but the whole Holy Roman Empire suggests that the Emperor is the nominal ruler of the entire world.

View in direction of Charles bridge

The garden is like a theatrical performance. The Gate and the Gloriette are the Prologue and Epilogue.

The first act takes place in the Salla Terrena where Ceres and Bacchus triumph , but Venus acknowledges her defeat - she is helpless like any mortal woman in love.

The second act takes place in the Dining Room where we witness the triumph of Minerva. She descended to Earth to teach people how to overcome death with the power of Art.

From the third act the performance takes place on the Upper terrace. Jupiter sends Mercury with the quarrelling goddesses to Paris, but before Venus can triumph over Juno and Minerva , the audience is again reminded that Venus surrended to mere mortal and his hunting passion.

Volcanos draws our attention to  the old battle between terrestrial and celestial love.

The triumph of love is followed by the triumph of Death. Art may overcome death but only temporarily. Eternity is the prerogative of Virtue, which is the only way to immortality.

The celebration of Art is secondary.

The glorification of reason and its victory over sensuality is primary, Reason leads people to redemption. The garden is a symbolic crossroad at which Hercules hesitates between Virtues and Vice.

The garden decoration is not just attribute of a revived Roman Empire but above all of its high moral ethos. Emperor Charles VI presented his rule as a renewal of the Golden Age.